Hakkasan

Hakkasan occupies a dramatic space within the Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental, the Abu Dhabi outpost of the globally recognised Cantonese fine-dining brand. The interior is dark, moody, and maze-like - carved wooden screens, blue-lit alcoves, and an atmosphere that tilts toward nightclub after 9pm, which suits some moods and frustrates others. The outdoor terrace, looking back toward the Etihad Towers, is the calmer and arguably more rewarding setting. The food, when it lands, is impressive. The crispy duck salad is the most consistently praised dish on the menu - perfectly balanced and textured. The jasmine tea-smoked wagyu beef short ribs are rich, tender, and aromatic. The dim sum platter is beautifully presented and precisely constructed, the soft shell crab delivers, and the black cod carries proper depth. The Dragon tasting menu offers a comprehensive tour of the signatures and works well for groups. Cocktails - particularly the lychee martini - are expertly crafted. Consistency, however, is the caveat. Busy evenings can bring rushed pacing, with courses arriving before drinks and plates cleared without ceremony. Some dishes - the Peking duck in particular - have drawn criticism for arriving overcooked or lukewarm. Service swings between deeply attentive and inattentive depending on the night. When everything aligns, this is one of the most accomplished Chinese restaurants in the Gulf; when it does not, the premium pricing makes the gaps harder to overlook. A smart-casual dress code applies, and reservations are essential.